GOING GREY: Dior threw a VIP cocktail party on Tuesday night to celebrate its Gris Dior pop-up art gallery, “The Grey Zone,” in Los Angeles.
Faces of the fragrance, violet in hue — Jenna Ortega, Thuso Mbedu, Orelsan and Fai Khadra — came out to toast the occasion. A mix of actors and content creators also joined festivities: Alexandra Daddario, Caleb McLaughlin, Thomas Doherty, Christian Serratos, Lucy Hale, Kiernan Shipka, Jurnee Smollett, Kelvin Harrison Jr., Amelie Zilber, Wisdom Kaye and Anna Sitar.
Dior tapped five creatives to interpret the scent in works of art. The international crowd of artists, showcasing diverse oeuvres — from paintings to immersive installations — was composed of Andrés Reisinger, Ben Johnston, Mileece, Collectif Scale and Thomas Trum.
“I think color is really important,” Trum told WWD. He immersed himself in the color scheme of the scent. The artist, who lives and works in the Netherlands, is at the intersection of art and design.
“I’m currently interested in painting,” he went on. “Painting with transparent shades and having overlay and color mixing.”
He installed a wall of customized white bottles and presented a live performance during the opening, “Colourchanging Looping Line (Gris)” — a work of large, colorful circles created with the help of machinery. The display ranges in tones from magenta to lavender.
Meanwhile for Reisinger, the journey was digital — and rooted in the eau de parfum’s notes of chypre, citrus and floral.
“Having the scent in mind and in my brain and in my nose, and living with the scent for a while, I started to make some outputs, to create some results, some expressions,” he said of his work, hangings of canvasses in a digital gallery.
The exhibition, which was located at 8175 Melrose Avenue, ended Sunday. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE
AMI’S MONTMARTRE METAVERSE: Fancy a stroll around Montmartre, without crowds, strikes or demonstrations?
Then head over to social gaming app Zepeto, where French label Ami is launching its recreation of the picturesque neighborhood, right down to the cobblestones, sketch artists and picturesque cafés, on Friday.
After an augmented reality Easter egg hunt last year and an nonfungible-token collaboration with British Olympian Tom Daley, this marks Ami’s third foray into the metaverse and the first time the brand is digitizing its clothes into wearables.
“A trip to Montmartre, with Ami” was a way to “continue on a path of transmission of values, know-how, architecture, the Parisian lifestyle around the world,” said Ami’s chief executive officer Nicolas Santi-Weil. Zepeto’s considerable reach was ideal to prolong the experience of the spring 2023 collection with its winding runway and sweeping view on the Eiffel Tower.
At a moment where travel remains a challenge for most and France’s image is suffering on the global stage — endless mountains of trash on Instagram, anyone? — he and founder Alexandre Mattiussi wanted to recreate “that little moment of French magic that we love talking about and bringing to life” from the inception of the brand, continued the executive.
Technology seemed the ideal way to create an immersive experience and Zepeto’s lighthearted doll-like style felt fitting to telegraph “something soft, rounded and friendly,” while the app’s tools offered the kind of best-in-class experience Santi-Weil wants to offer.
Users on Zepeto will be able to purchase 14 items in-game, all digital takes on the clothes from the spring 2023 collection, alongside special items such as the Ami de Cœur balloon, in a nod to the one featured in the eponymous 2021 campaign by Jean-Paul Goude.
And for those who want to translate their virtual style into an IRL wardrobe, there will also a dedicated page on the Ami e-commerce site offering the selection for sale.
But it was also “the logical next step,” according to the executive. “This is a way to surprise for a brand rooted in reality, to test new areas of expression, with the idea of reaching a wider audience in a more fun way and continue to say that Paris is gorgeous,” said Santi-Weil.
Launched in 2018, Zepeto now has more than 300 million registered users globally, with 20 million monthly active users, according to its parent company Naver. Creators on the platform have traded more than 2.3 billion items with other users.
Consumers “like being at the heart of the adventure and be increasingly master of their own destiny,” while affirming their identity, for Santi-Weil. “They want to live experiences, be it physically or virtually. They want meaning, they want user-generated content and be able to experiment, to create, to be at the heart of the action.”
While he wouldn’t be drawn into conjectures about whether virtual sales would translate into purchases of the physical garments, Santi-Weil felt there was no question of either-or between the physical and digital worlds, as he is a staunch believer in the idea that the two spheres have to coexist and are complementary.
“For our digital [projects] to be hits, we need to have beautiful stores, beautiful shows and a story that we can embark people on. It’s because we have these that clients trust us to buy digitally — on our e-commerce, on platforms, on WeChat or elsewhere,” he said.
For the 12-year-old brand, platforms like Zepeto are “playgrounds where [Ami] is in exploratory mode,” and for the executive, the key to continued success remains the same as in the brick-and-mortar world: coherence.
“Given the importance of the [Zepeto] community, it’s a way to be visible but it’s an even stronger constraint on that front,” he said. “And being on too many platforms at once, you risk giving 15 different takes on the brand and would be damaging.”
If anything, he views the metaverse, or rather, the myriad such platforms, as so many opportunities to tell the Ami brand story in novel creative ways and receive direct feedback from its community. “Taking the time to listen, learn, taking that risk and seeing how it goes and what people connected with, that’s what’s exciting,” said Santi-Weil. — LILY TEMPLETON
LARSSON’S PAY: Stefan Larsson, chief executive officer of PVH Corp., saw his compensation slip 17.5 percent to $12.1 million last year, according to the company’s proxy statement filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission.
The biggest part of the CEO’s pay came from stock and option awards that were valued at $8 million in the filing, although Larsson’s actual take will depend on how well the stock performs — tying his own return to the fortunes of shareholders.
He also received $2.2 million in incentive pay and a salary of $1.3 million along with other forms of compensation.
Larsson, who took the lead at the Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein parent in 2021, has been transforming the business with his PVH+ plan, which focuses in on staple looks, or “hero” products, and backs them up with big-time marketing.
“We are in the early phase of this journey and believe we are well-positioned to win,” Larsson told shareholders in the proxy.
Larsson and PVH started getting some more credit for the approach last month, when fourth-quarter adjusted earnings per share came in at $2.38, flying past the $1.65 projected by analysts, while revenues rose 9 percent in constant currencies, excluding the impact of the war in Ukraine.
“Throughout the year, we experienced unprecedented external headwinds felt across the global economy, our sector and our business, from the war in Ukraine, decades-high strength of the U.S. dollar and inflation rates globally, and continued COVID-19 disruptions,” Larsson told shareholders. “Despite the increasingly challenging macroeconomic environment, our Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger businesses continued to exhibit underlying strength, underpinned by great products tied to impactful consumer engagement. We exited 2022 and entered 2023 with significant momentum that we are excited to build upon.” — EVAN CLARK
GETTING PERSONAL: L’Objet is getting personal.
The home fragrance and design brand is entering into the personal scent space for the first time.
The collection, which launched today, includes four nature-inspired eau de parfums: Oh Mon Dieu!, evoking the spirit of Paris in 1969; Bois Savauge, reminiscent of a wet forest scent, Rose Noire, a mix of roses; and Côté Maquis, meant to remind wearers of a sunny Mediterranean day, all $160 or $250.
“I’m extremely inspired and fascinated by fragrance and its effect on us and our emotions, our moods and how it can throw you into a place or space in time. That was the motive behind it [the eau de parfum collection],” Elad Yifrach, founder and creative director of L’Objet, noted.
Although L’Objet has made a name for itself in the home fragrance and design space since its 2004 launch, personal eau de parfums were always on the horizon for Yifrach.
“We’ve always been in the home fragrance category and, and it’s been a very big passion of mine,” Yifrach said. “As we’ve developed it over the years and started to work with a house nose and really forged this philosophy of wanting to touch the five senses with everything that we do, it was very clear that that would be the end goal.”
However, Yifrach wanted to take the customer on a scent journey of sorts, starting with the home, to ensure each launch was authentic to the brand. Part of this journey was the apothecary, which launched in 2018, bringing bath and body scents to the brand for the first time.
Similar to L’Objet’s approach to design, the fragrances are carefully crafted with the best materials. The new eau de parfum collection, which has been in development for the past four-and-a-half years, uses high quality raw materials and natural ingredients, which Yifrach identifies as a key differentiator.
“It’s more unique in its approach. It’s the kind of richness in experience, but then simple in the way that you perceive what you’re smelling. It’s complex yet simple at the same time,” he told WWD.
The four eau de parfums, as well as a $40 discovery set, will be available on L’Objet’s website, as well as at Bergdorf Goodman with plans to expand into other retailers in the future. — EMILY BURNS
CALIFORNIA QUARTET: The Webster has landed in Palm Springs just in time for Coachella.
The Miami-based specialty retailer recently opened the doors to a new 4,200-square-foot storefront in a 1970s revival property located at 850 North Palm Canyon Drive ahead of the popular music festival set to kick off this weekend.
Renovated by Stéphane Parmentier, the new shop is the third location designed by the French interior designer and mimics key design elements found in the retailer’s Montecito and Toronto stores.
According to the specialty retailer, the inspiration for the Palm Springs store is drawn from Brazil, more specifically, strong references to design from Saõ Paulo and Brasília, such as elements of geometric and timeless architecture.
Upon entering the store there are two seating areas that are a tribute to Brazilian designer Oscar Niemeyer, with architectural chairs upholstered in fabrics in off-white, light pink and mustard, with dark brown leather and rich wood hues.
The store is lined with shelving and rails that are rendered in white sand-inspired fabric, reminiscent of the buildings and beach in Brasília, while contrasting Amazonian earth-color flooring runs throughout. The Webster’s signature “good luck charms” featuring pieces from artist Aaron Young are also on display, as well as other pieces from Jackie Boo, Auto Pilot and Webster Pink.
According to The Webster, customers will be able to shop a range of ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories from brands such as Alexandre Vauthier, Amiri, The Attico, Balenciaga, Casablanca, Celine, Diesel, Gallery Dept., Fendi, Gucci, Jacquemus, Louisa Ballou, Marine Serre, Nahmias, Paco Rabanne, Pucci, Rhude, Rick Owens, Roberta Einer, Saint Laurent, The Row, Who Decides War and more throughout this new “creatively merchandised” store.
To help launch the store, The Webster has also unveiled two exclusive designer capsule collections with Amiri and Pucci.
This opening marks its fourth location in California, following a slate of openings in Los Angeles and Montecito at Rosewood Miramar Beach in 2020.
In a statement about the opening, The Webster founder and chief executive officer Laure Hériard Dubreuil said that launching in Palm Springs “truly completes” the company’s California expansion, which has been a focus for the company over the last few years.
“It is truly an incredible feeling to continue growing our physical footprint, following our clients where their lifestyle takes them, and introducing new clients to The Webster experience, especially in a dream setting like Palm Springs,” Hériard Dubreuil said. “This desert oasis embodies so much of The Webster brand, from art, design and culture to the following of our love of sunshine that comes from our Miami heritage. We are so excited about the opportunities that this new city has to offer.”
The Webster was founded by Hériard Dubreuil in 2009 in Miami, where she opened shop inside the former Webster Hotel on Collins Avenue. A decade after the Miami flagship opened, The Webster has expanded to seven additional flagship locations in Bal Harbour, Florida; Houston; Costa Mesa, California; New York City; Los Angeles; Montecito at the Rosewood Miramar Beach, and most recently, Toronto as well as an annual pop-up in Palm Beach, Florida. — STEPHEN GARNER
PAS DE DEUX: Dancing with fashion.
British fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner is collaborating with The National Youth Dance Company on a series of custom pieces for Wayne McGregor’s “Novacene” which makes its debut at The Lowry in Manchester, England, and then at Sadler’s Wells Theatre on June 3 in London.
Sadler’s Wells will be celebrating the company’s 10th anniversary via parties bringing together young people with the learning and engagement department of the theater hosting 100 free school workshops and five regional commissions.
“I have always been inspired by the rich and expressive gestures of dance in designing silhouettes, so it has been a great pleasure to collaborate with NYDC and Wayne McGregor. I hope these custom Wales Bonner pieces allow the young artists to shine with their full individuality and energy,” said Wales Bonner in a statement.
McGregor’s work is based on the 2019 book “Novacene: The Coming Age of Hyperintelligence” by scientist and environmentalist James Lovelock.
“Our period of evolution today where cyborgs think 10,000 times quicker than we do and have the capability of programming themselves and their descendants in ways that will be beyond all human understanding. What is the future human? A Novacene Cyborg 2023,” said McGregor in a statement.
In June, McGregor will also be working with Burberry’s new chief creative officer Daniel Lee to create the costumes for his latest work for The Royal Ballet, an as-yet-untitled production.
The National Youth Dance Company will be going on a U.K. tour in the summer. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED